I thought today we’d talk about dress codes. Although usually only formal invitations state a dress code, all occasions have some expected level of appropriate dress. Most of the time we intuitively recognise these, but it can still be tricky to know what to wear. Understanding what the different levels of formality are and what they each require can be helpful. This knowledge is a framework to judge what level of formality is expected. There is some fluidity within levels and most forms of dress can be amalgamated into it as the equivalent of some level in the scale.
The formality levels of Western dress codes are:
- White Tie
- Black Tie
- Morning Dress
- Lounge Suits / ‘Formal Business’
- ‘Formal’ Smart Casual / ‘Business Casual’
- ‘Informal’ Smart Casual
- Casual
- ‘Old Clothes’
Expectations for men’s clothing are generally quite clear cut, especially at the most formal levels, where it’s strictly defined. Ladies’ clothing, by comparison, is open to wider interpretation. This is more challenging but also gives greater creativity and variety – as can be seen at white and black tie events, when the dress code allows the ladies to stand out in their beautiful bright gowns against the monotone uniformity of the gentlemen.
White Tie
White tie is the most formal of Western dress codes and is rarely seen nowadays. ‘White tie’ will always be stated on the invitation and it is only worn in the evening, after 6pm. It is reserved for only the most formal occasions. White tie may be worn at certain royal ceremonies, state banquets, high society balls, and livery dinners. It may also be called ‘full evening dress.’
Gentlemen: black single-breasted tailcoat; black trousers; white shirt with wing collar; low-cut white evening waistcoat; white bow tie (hence the name ‘white tie’); cufflinks; studs; black lace-up shoes; black socks; in winter a black overcoat and white silk scarf are optional.
Ladies: full-length formal evening dress or ballgown; dresses traditionally show décolletage; finest jewellery; tiaras may be worn by married women only; small evening bag; long evening gloves (which should be removed before eating); evening coat, cloak, or wrap.
Black Tie
Black tie is much more commonly seen than white tie, although it is still only worn for semi-formal evening events after 6pm. Black tie may be worn for public or private dinners, balls, parties, awards ceremonies, and high society events. Although referred to as ‘semi-formal’ (in comparison to the more formal white tie), these are still very formal events. Black tie may also be referred to as ‘dinner jackets’ or, in America, as ‘tuxedos.’
Gentlemen: black single-breasted dinner jacket; black trousers; white evening shirt with turned-down collar; cummerbunds or waistcoats are optional; black bow tie (hence the name ‘black tie’); studs; black lace-up shoes; black socks; a white handkerchief in the left breast pocket is traditional.
Ladies: long evening dress or cocktail dress; palazzo cut evening trousers may be an alternative option; voluminous dresses or very tight dresses are both inappropriate for sit-down dinners; sheer or black tights; fine jewellery; evening bag; evening coat.
Morning Dress
Morning dress is the daytime equivalent of white tie, for formal events starting before 6pm. It may be worn at some official functions, weddings, formal daytime events, and social season events such as the horse races. Morning dress is no longer commonly worn, so the events that it is worn for are special occasions.
Gentlemen: black or grey single-breasted morning coat; grey or grey and black-striped trousers; white or light-coloured shirt with a white turned-down collar; waistcoat; tie; cufflinks; a tie pin is optional; smart black shoes; a grey or black top hat is worn at certain events; a handkerchief in the left breast pocket and an understated buttonhole are optional.
Ladies: smart day dress or skirt; dresses should be modest and shoulders should be covered; a tailored jacket, shrug, or shawl are optional in summer; daytime jewellery; shoes should be day- rather than evening-style (i.e. not too high heels); tights; hats or fascinators.
Lounge Suits / ‘Formal Business’
Traditionally lounge suits were considered ‘informal’, however nowadays it’s common for it to be the most formal level of clothing that the average person wears. It can be worn during both daytime and evening for most business events, as well as many social events such as dinners, lunches, receptions, christenings, weddings, and funerals. The term ‘lounge suit’ is used on invitations, whilst in conversation it is generally referred to as a ‘business suit’ or ‘dark suit.’
Gentlemen: dark single-breasted jacket; dark trousers; white or light-coloured shirt with turned-down collar; a single- or double-breasted waistcoat is optional (this is the difference between a three-piece or two-piece suit); belts should not be worn with a waistcoat; tie; smart shoes.
Ladies: smart day dress or skirt or trouser suit; dresses should be below the knee; shoulders should be covered; jacket or coat; daytime bag; for evening events, a smart dress or cocktail dress with an evening bag; if necessary, the same dress can be worn for day and evening, with a jacket removed and accessories added in the evening.
‘Formal’ Smart Casual / ‘Business Casual’
Smart casual is a rather vague term as far as formality of dress code goes. There is often an unspoken division between the more formal ‘smart casual’ and its more informal variant. An intuitive judgement will likely need to be made on this from what type of event it is for. Generally if it is a business situation, the more formal variant will be called for.
Gentlemen: jacket or blazer; flannels or needlecord trousers or chinos (not jeans); shirt with a collar; a jumper or sweater is optional if it’s cold; smart shoes; ties shouldn’t be required.
Ladies: smart day dress or skirt or trousers; jacket or possibly a cardigan; smart shoes; smart accessories optional; avoid high heels or suits; avoid denim.
‘Informal’ Smart Casual
One of the main differences from the more ‘formal’ smart casual is that ‘informal’ smart casual allows the wearing of denim. However, this denim must be smart and in good quality – no ripped jeans please! It is one level more dressed up than what you may usually wear around home, and should have the effect of looking relaxed yet polished. You want to look like you have made some effort!
Gentlemen: smart dark-coloured jeans; polo shirt or equivalent (not a collar-less t-shirt); generally informal but smart and clean and tidy.
Ladies: denim allowed but it must be immaculate and dark-coloured; nice top; flats rather than heels; not too dressy but well put-together and made an effort.
Casual
Casual wear most likely forms your everyday go-to outfits. It is comprised of anything not suitable for more formal dress codes. This may include t-shirts or shorts, for example, but just because it’s casual doesn’t mean it can’t be pretty. With a little forethought and planning of your outfits, perhaps the coordinating of accessories, you can still look elegant and well put-together.
‘Old Clothes’
Now this category isn’t included in any clothing scales I can find, but I think it’s helpful to recognise that there’s a level below casual. ‘Old clothes’ are things that you loved but which are now worn out. They don’t look too smart anymore, so you should avoid wearing them out in public, but they can be convenient for tasks at home. ‘Old clothes’ are what you can wear while gardening, decorating, or doing other such messy work when you don’t want to ruin your nicer clothes. The important thing is to recognise when items of clothing should be downgraded to this level, rather than allowing them to downgrade your whole style.
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